Cosy bars, majestic castles and timeless architecture make Lisbon a cool and entrancing city. Our 3-day Lisbon itinerary puts it all together, so you have time to savour it all.

Lisbon is cool.

As a city unrestrained by convention, Lisbon is bursting with personality. Beside majestic architecture housing Portugal’s famous blue tiles, flea markets hum to the murmur of curious browsers.

Re-purposed industrial areas give it an edge for artistic expression, while timeless monasteries captivate with beguiling designs.   

Windy lanes climbing up and down narrow streets hide tiny bars serving simple tapas and local wines. Live music spills from open windows; the wistful warbling of fado fills squares with an inexplicable yearning.

We’ve visited Lisbon several times, and this itinerary captures everything we love about this alluring city. From the best local areas to the top tourist spots; exquisite galleries to the coolest street art; glorious castles to quirky shops.

And of course, pastel de nata.

LISBON MAP | ABOUT THIS ITINERARY

We’ve put this itinerary together after several visits to Lisbon. It has been designed to minimise the travel time between sights and you can follow most of this itinerary on foot. The map below is organised by each of the 3 days.

DAY 1 – ALFAMA & OLD LISBON

Alfama, perched up on the hill, is a maze of alleyways winding between grand historic buildings. There are sweeping views over the city and the sea, similar to some of the vistas in Porto.

We always have a great time simply ambling around the area but here is a recommended route.

CHURCH OF SÃO VICENTE DE FORA

Grab a quality coffee at Copenhagen Coffee Lab and Bakery, before entering the Church of São Vicente de Fora.

The church itself is decent and worth a look, but the monastery and cloisters next door are incredibly impressive. Blue tiles, protected by vaulted ceilings, shimmer on the white walls.

The atmospheric side chapels have tombs adorned with skulls with a cloaked statue standing guard.

Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora / Check current opening times.

GRACA’S CAMPO DE SANTA CLARA

After the church, head over to Graca’s Campo de Santa Clara, where a massive flea market, Feira da Ladra, covers the streets (Tuesday and Saturday).

It sells everything you will never need: old rotary phones, broken mannequins and pre-loved vinyl. The market is great for people watching and you may even pick up a bargain.

LISBON CATHEDRAL

Next, stroll the tightly packed twisty streets of Alfama.

Head past the cute stores and tiny bars to Miradouro das Portas do Sol observation deck for more views. Drop down the hill to the castellated fortress that is Lisbon Cathedral.

The Romanesque Lisbon Cathedral dates back to the 12th century. With an imposing facade and two bell towers on either side, it rises like a medieval fortress from the old town. 

The view from the loft was the highlight for us.

PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO

Finally, leave Alfama and stroll down towards Praça do Comércio. The harbour-facing plaza is one of the largest in Portugal and the most beautiful in Europe. It was completely remodelled after the earthquake and today it’s the seat of the Portuguese state departments.

The large ornate square an excellent photo opportunity, but we’d suggest avoiding the restaurants around the square.

FADO + EVENING

In the evening head to Bairro Alto.

Grab a drink on the steps at Meson Andaluz. Then, choose from the daily changing menu of local dishes at the tiny but charming Taberna da Rua das Flores.

Later in the evening, Tasca Do Chico offers an intimate great value fado experience. One block north, cool jazz drifts out of Páginas Tanta.

At Portas Largas a mixed young crowd can be found enjoying live pop music. If you can’t decide, just go to all three. There’s no entrance charge and the drinks are cheap.

DAY 2 – BELÉM & WEST LISBON

The seafront area of Belém lies to the west of Lisbon city centre. Come here for engrossing architecture, the epicentre of modern art in the city, and the best pastel de nata in Lisbon.

ANTIGA CONFEITARA DE BELÉM

Take tram 15 to Belém and begin the second day of your 3-day Lisbon itinerary with coffee and pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart) from Antiga Confeitara de Belém. Yes it has become a large tourist institution, but the pastel de nata is still the best in town.

JERÓNIMO’S CHURCH AND MONASTERY

After breakfast head to Jerónimo’s Church and Monastery.

The remarkable vaulted ceiling of the church is held aloft by intricately carved stone pillars, illuminated by beams of light cascading through colourful stained glass windows.

The tomb of Vasco de Gama – the first person to sail around the Cape of Good Hope and therefore enable Portugal to build an empire – takes pride of place.

The church is free but we recommend paying to go into the monastery. The cloisters are magnificent and the view of the church from the upper choir is not to be missed.

MUSEU COLEÇÃO BERARDO

End the morning at Museu Coleção Berardo, Lisbon’s best modern art offering. The permanent collection is well-labelled and offers a history lesson in the development of modern art.

The temporary exhibitions have an excellent reputation, it was one of our favourite experiences in Lisbon on our last visit.

BELÉM TOWER & PADRÃO DOS DESCOBRIMENTOS

Cross the street and peer up at the tower of Belém.

The climb up to the top is not really worth the wait, so we’d suggest skipping in and strolling along the seafront to find a spot for lunch.

After recharging, pass by Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the photogenic monument to Portugal’s navigational prowess.  

LX FACTORY

Head toward the city on tram 15, but before you get there, jump off at LX Factory, an old textile factory that has been converted into a modern and creative space under the railway line.

There’s some excellent street art on old factory walls, indie shops, a very cool bookstore and some of the best coffee in town. It’s a great place to hang out and relax.

SANTA CATARINA

Hopping back on tram 15, spend the evening in the quaint neighbourhood of Santa Catarina which sits on top of a hill. A drink at Noobai Café offers views over the water. To get here it’s a steep walk up the hill or you could take the fun way and ride up on Elevador da Bica.

DAY 3 – BAIRRO ALTO, BAIXA & CHIADO

The central area of Lisbon is an eclectic mix. Narrow alleyways crisscross grand shopping streets, dilapidated ruins sit next to striking hotels, and music wafts through open doors and windows. It’s a great part of the city.

TRAM 28

On the last day of this 3-day Lisbon itinerary, get an early start (to avoid the queues) and head to Praça Martim Moniz to board Tram 28. This tram twists and turns up the hilliest, narrowest and most scenic lanes in Lisbon. It loops around Alfama, across the centre of town and back up into Chiado.

PRAÇA DE PRINCIPE REAL

Jump off the tram in Chiadom explore the shops around Praça Luis de Camōes and then head north into the tightly packed narrow lanes of Bairro Alto.

Check out the various new concept stores around Praça de Principe Real before lunch at A Cevicheria. Sit at the counter under a giant octopus, and admire the chef preparing mouth-watering fish dishes.

MIRADOURO DE SÃO PEDRO DE ALCÃNTARA

After lunch check out the view at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcãntara, which we think gives you the best view in the city. Then make your way down to Rossio and Baixa.

You can either take the Elevador da Gloria tram or walk down the path alongside the tram tracks to inspect some of the coolest street art in Lisbon.

IGREJA DE SÃO DOMINGOS

You now find yourself in Rossio and Baixa – newer Lisbon neighbourhoods, built after the earthquake of 1755.

Explore the squares and statues making sure you call in at Igreja de São Domingos. This atmospheric church suffered damage during the earthquake and was burnt down in 1959. The roof was destroyed and has been rebuilt but the walls bear the scars of both events.

CONVENTO DO CARMO

Skip the long queues and only average views of Elevador de Santa Justa and take the free supermarket lift to Rua Garrett. It’s less glamorous, but just as effective.

Stroll the shops before visiting Convento do Carmo. The convent was damaged in the earthquake, and now only towering arches reach into the sky.

The chapel at the back contains a strange mix of fascinating artefacts: tombs of the famous, a 2nd-century Egyptian sarcophagus and most interestingly, two mummies of Peruvian children.

BAIRRO ALTO

For the final evening, grab dinner at Artis Bar in Bairro Alto. It has a great local wine bar atmosphere and tasty dishes at decent prices. It’s also perfectly positioned for people spilling into the streets as music wafts in the air.

WHERE TO STAY IN LISBON

Lisbon is a relatively compact city, but it’s still a good idea to stay as centrally as possible. We recommend staying in Baixa/Chiado, Bairro Alto or Alfama.

All these neighbourhoods ooze the charm that makes Lisbon the city that it is. They’re all centrally located allowing you to get an early start in the morning, and a late night in the evening.

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HOW TO GET AROUND LISBON

Lisbon has a comprehensive public transport network including trams, funiculars, buses and a metro.

A Navegante Card is a quick and easy way to pay for all your travel. The card costs €0.50 and can be charged with individual tickets, a day pass (€6.40 / £5.95 / $7.90), or with a balance of up to €40 to use as pay-as-you go.

Cards can be purchased and charged at metro stations or small stores displaying the Navagante sign.

However, the best way to get around the city is to walk. This Lisbon itinerary puts all the sights and experiences in the right order, so you don’t have to spend too much time between places.

BEST TIME TO GO TO LISBON

The best time to visit Lisbon is during the shoulder seasons of March to May and September to October. Over this period, the temperatures are generally comfortable and there are fewer visitors.

You might also snap up a bargain with accommodation places slightly cheaper over this period.

As with most European destinations, summer is the peak season when both the temperature and visitor numbers are high. In winter it can be wet and windy, although in Lisbon it’s rarely uncomfortably cold.

WHAT TO BOOK BEFORE A TRIP TO LISBON

Most attractions in Lisbon don’t require pre-booking and we wouldn’t recommend getting too much in advance so you can leave your itinerary flexible.

If you’re visiting during peak times, you may want to book ahead to beat the queue especially São Jorge Castle and Saint Jerónimos Monastery.

HOW MUCH TIME IN LISBON?

Most of the main sights in Lisbon could be seen in 2 days. It’s a relatively compact city with good local transport so getting between all the main attractions is efficient.  

We have provided a 3-day Lisbon itinerary because this allows you to see all the impressive historical sights and enjoy some local experiences. It also leaves a little time to wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere.  

Lisbon is one of our favourite cities in Europe. It’s charming and easy; beautiful and interesting. Yet the nightlife is pumping, the wine free-flowing and the locals friendly. So, you could easily spend up to 4 or 5 days visiting Lisbon, especially if you added a day trip to Sintra, which you could either do on your own or join a tour.  

TIPS FOR VISITING LISBON

Firstly, read our guide to the best things to do in Lisbon which covers all our top highlights in more detail.

TRAM 28 TIPS

Getting on board Tram 28 at Praça Martim Moniz can be painful as queues are often long. Get their early or walk to the next stop at Rue Palme and hop on there. Tram 28 is a wonderful Lisbon experience but a pick-pocketers delight, so keep an eye on your stuff.

STREET SELLING

The whispers of “Hashish? Cocaine?” on the streets of Santa Maria Maior is part of a well-known fake drug annoyance embraced by Lisbon. Simply say “no thanks” and move on, in most cases, you’re just rejecting flour or crushed up bay leaves.

AUTHENTIC FADO

Fado is a moving experience in Lisbon, but the best never gets advertised or promoted to tourists. If you hear it wafting from a packed bar, but there are no signs, this is the place to check out.

TOURIST RESTAURANTS

Lisbon has grasped the concept of the tourist restaurant. If you want a local dining experience, gravitate towards places without English menus, and avoid places with people hassling you out the front.

MIRADOUROS

Always take the opportunity to collect the views at a miradouro; they’re a great place to hang out and Lisbon’s array of roof tiles is stunning. Some of the best are:

• Miradouro das Portas do Sol
• Miradouro da Graça
• Miradouro de Santa Catarina
• Miradouro de Senhora do Monte
• Miradouro de Monte Agudo

MORE PORTUGAL READING

With such a breathtaking stretch of coastline, you’ll want to find the best place to stay on the Jurassic Coast. Whether you are a hiker, a beachgoer, or a do-nothing-er; this guide helps you choose your perfect spot.

With 95 miles of coastline and 185 million years in the making, the Jurassic Coast is a geological marvel, a scenic refresher and a hiker’s paradise. Finding where to stay on the Jurassic Coast is just the start of a great escape to some of the best coastal activities the UK has to offer.

Spend an afternoon in rejuvenation mode either hiking along rugged white clifftops or lazing on pebble beaches below them. Take in the Jurassic Coast light via a sunrise excursion to a decaying castle, or under the exposed lightbulbs of a hipster brewery producing artisanal ales.

The Jurassic Coast is a 2-hour drive from one end to the other, so it’s important to understand where you want to stay. Pick from a stylish clifftop hotel staring, a shepherd’s hut, a cool treehouse or a traditional pub in a remote location.

Whatever accommodation you are after, our guide to the best hotels on the Dorset Coast includes all the regions along the Jurassic Coast to help you plan your next long weekend in the UK.

1 – PURBECK PENINSULA

Best place to stay on the Jurassic Coast for superb hikes and dramatic scenery

The Purbeck Peninsula is a sixty square mile patch of England, jutting out into the English Channel and bordered on three sides by water. Nowhere along the Jurassic Coast is the scenery more dramatic than in the Purbeck Peninsula. Towering white cliffs and mighty stacks of rock drop precipitously to the sea.

Durdle Door, Lulworth Cove and Old Harry Rocks – the iconic sights of the south of England – are scattered across the peninsula, connected by scenic hikes on the Jurassic Coast. Just inland, the exceptionally photogenic Corfe Castle and several abandoned villages, add to the remote feel of the region.

There are some great Dorset Coastal hotels on the Isle of Purbeck. Remote pubs all alone on the southwest coastal path, grand hotels in charming market towns or a bit of luxury along the bay in Studland.

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2 – LYME REGIS 

Best place to stay on the Jurassic Coast for a hip and welcoming seaside town

There are a few seaside towns along the Jurassic Coast, but the pick of the bunch is Lyme Regis. Unlike some of the tourist-driven towns on the coast, Lyme Regis capitalises on the character of the area. Independent shops stocked with local produce line the high street beside quality restaurants and surprisingly good coffee.  The Lyme Regis micro-brewery perched over a tiny brook is a secret worth knowing about.

Down on the front, the part shingle, part sandy beach bends in an arc backed with colourful huts and cute townhouses. It’s a lovely, authentic town with a working harbour that still clamours with activity in the early hours as fishermen head out to sea.  

A little further afield, take part in a fossil-hunting expedition at Charmouth or enjoy a circular walk around the weird rock formations of West Bay. The barrel-vaulted, 14th Century Chapel at Abbotsbury is as traditionally English as you could hope to find.

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3 – DORCHESTER 

Best place to stay on the Jurassic Coast for a charming market town with easy connections

If you want to explore all the things to do on the Jurassic Coast then Dorchester is a great option. Centrally located between the Purbeck peninsula and Lyme Regis, it’s a great base to explore most of the main attractions on the coast.

But as the capital of Dorset, Dorchester has its own appeal as well. The High Street is lined with grand and imposing architecture, excellent restaurants and museums. Perhaps more importantly, there’s good coffee at Coffee Saloon. As a major centre, it has a good range of accommodation from top quality B&B’s to grand Jurassic Coast hotels in landmark buildings.

Dorchester is a great option for accommodation on the Dorset coast. In less than an hour’s drive you can be at many of the best spots anywhere along the coast.  

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4 – DESTINATION STAYS 

Best Jurassic Coast hotels and innovative stays which are the attraction in themselves

The Jurassic Coast has its fair share of quirky accommodation; places so good it hardly matters that you’re also in one of the most scenic parts of the country.  

Go off-grid in a well-equipped and cosy Shepherds’ Hut set in the Dorset countryside, or unwind in stylish, quirky accommodation overlooking the sea.

For something completely different, escape to the outdoor luxury accommodation of a treehouse; a unique stay on the Jurassic Coast and a memorable way to unwind.

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THANKS FOR VISITING // WHERE NEXT?

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Funchal, the capital of Madeira, has a small-town vibe with big city credentials. Here’s what can happen when you mix Portuguese spirit with a subtropical climate in a city fuelled by fortified wine and Pastel de Nata.

Displayed like a football stadium, Funchal is an amphitheatre of terracotta houses curving down towards the Atlantic Ocean. High above the city, towering mountains provide a scenic backdrop to this colourful European centre.

With a sub-tropical climate providing delightful year-round temperatures, Funchal is an excellent base for exploring the island.

Enjoy a day of exhilarating outdoor activities and wind down with a glass of fortified wine. Have a slow stroll through the old town or take to the streets on an exhilarating toboggan ride.

Funchal sets a relaxed pace under a lush, rugged canvas, making it a unique European destination for outdoor adventures and cultural kicks.   

We visited Funchal with Jet2holidays. Here’s what we got up to.

1. FUNCHAL TO MONTE CABLE CAR

Funchal is oriented around a small Old Town squeezed between the mountains and the sea. Midway up the hillside backdrop, Monte is a small village that sits around 550 metres above sea level.

The Funchal-Monte Cable Car runs from the historic centre of Funchal up to the village of Monte.

It’s a great way to take in the sweeping amphitheatre of Funchal and there are several great things to do once you get to the village.

Teleférico do Funchal – The cable car station is located in the garden of Almirante Reis, in the Funchal Old Town. For prices and opening times, see madeiracablecar.com.

2. MONTE TOBOGGAN

Wicker toboggan sledges were the original form of transport for locals who needed a speedy way to get from the hill of Monte down to Funchal in what was one of the world’s coolest commutes.

Today, the Monte Wicker Toboggan ride is one of the most popular tourist activities in Funchal.

Powered by 2 runners called Carreiros, the toboggan ride is an exhilarating dash down the streets of Funchal where corners are taken with an additional twist to extract screeches from delighted tourists.

The cost is €27.50 for a one-person toboggan, reduced to €17.50 per person if you share with 1 or 2 people. If you are travelling by yourself, you’ll have plenty of time to make a friend to share a toboggan with.

Queues can be snaking up the hill and it’s not uncommon to wait up to 2 hours. We highly recommending arriving as soon as the toboggans start running (9 am) to avoid queuing.

The ride is 2 kilometres long and takes around 10 minutes.

Starting Point – The starting point is just below the steps of the Monte Church (location). Buy your tickets from the booth first, then join the queue.

Arrival Point – The toboggan ride finishes at Livramento (location). This is about a 40-minute walk back into the Old Town, but there are usually plenty of taxis nearby.

Tips – The Carreiros will tip their Straw Boater hat at the end of the run expecting a tip, so make sure you have some cash with you if you want to tip.

Hours – Monday to Saturday 9 am to 6 pm | Cost – €27.50 for 1 person; €35 for 2; and €52.50 for 3 people.

3. JARDIM TROPICAL MONTE PALACE

The Tropical Garden at Monte Palace is a beautiful green space in a prime hilltop position overlooking Funchal Bay.

Displayed over multiple terraced levels, the gardens contain over 100,000 species of exotic flora from all over the world. The highlight for us was the Oriental Garden, adorned with Buddhist sculptures, lanterns and red walkways.

There’s an excellent collection of art throughout the gardens. The most notable are the large panels of Portuguese tiles, some of which date back to the 15^th century.

Inside the gardens, the Monte Palace Madeira Museum houses sculptures plus a unique mineral collection from all over the world.

To get to the gardens, it’s a short walk from the top of the Funchal Cable Car.

Hours – 9:30 am – 6 pm | Cost – €15, children under 15 years old have free entry.

4. BOTANICAL GARDENS

The Madeira Botanical Gardens cover 8 hectares of green space featuring ornamental shrubs, exotic orchids, and manicured lawns with wonderful views of Funchal.

There are around 2,500 plants in the garden including succulents, palms and several species that grow only in Madeira. At the end of the gardens, there’s an area devoted to exotic birds, with around 300 species.

The best way to get to the gardens is by taking the Jardim Botânico Cable Car which is just a short walk from the Monte station of the Funchal Cable Car. You can save 10% if you book online.

Hours – 9 am – 6 pm, Monday to Saturday | Cost – €7.50 (over 12 years); €3 (6-12 years). Free on April 30 and July 1. 

5. MERCADO DOS LAVRADORES

Mercado dos Lavradores, or the Farmers’ Market, is a small but bustling market in the centre of Funchal. Out the front you’ll find the flower market, with the fruit and veg occupying a central courtyard.

It’s a lovely place to stroll around with locals snapping up all kinds of delights, and tourists snapping photos. You may find some of the vendors excited to see you, but it’s nothing a polite “no thanks” can’t solve.  

The highlight of the market is the fish section towards the back where you find locals in stiff negotiations for seafood.

Tip – The best time to visit is early in the morning, up to around 1 pm, when the fish market is buzzing. Friday is the busiest day when most vendors are selling.

6. THE PAINTED DOORS

Rua da Santa Maria is one of the oldest streets in Funchal, lined with a mix of residential houses and café terraces.

In 2014, local artists were invited to work their magic on 200 doors in the tiny laneway. The Arte de Portas Abertas project, or Art of Open Doors, has transformed what was once an unassuming street into the most vibrant area in the Old Town.  

Now an open-air gallery, Rua da Santa Maria is completely free and one of the most colourful things to do in Funchal.

After strolling down the laneway to admire the art, grab a treat from Padaria Pastelaria Mariazinha – one of the best bakeries in Madeira.

Dinner Option – If you’re around Rua da Santa Maria in the evening, check out Já Fui Jaquet for dinner. Don’t be put off by the menu on their website, it’s quality Portuguese cooking.

7. MADEIRA WINE

It’s said that Madeira wine was an accident of the island’s seafaring past when wine would over-ferment on long sea voyages. To solve the problem, additional alcohol was added, and the result was a sweet complex wine that’s now the pride of the island.

Madeira wine is still fermented in American Oak with additional alcohol added. You can enjoy it from sweet to dry with a couple of levels of sweetness in between.

It appears on all wine lists in Madeira, but a good way to try it is to do a wine tour at Blandy’s Wine Lodge. They’ll explain the whole process in their atmospheric distillery with tastings included.

8. JARDIM MUNICIPAL

The Municipal Gardens are a lovely spot to explore in Funchal when you’re looking for a quick way to unwind.

It’s a small local garden, filled with exotic plants from the island and many from other parts of the world including macadamia trees, sausage tree, cotton wool tree, and purple jacaranda.

You don’t need long to explore, but it’s worth popping in for a quick look.

9. PRAÇA DO MUNICÍPIO

The Municipal Square is one of the most important squares in the historical centre of Funchal. It’s surrounded by interesting buildings with a fountain in the centre dating to 1942.

Public events are held in the square including Funchal’s famous Christmas Market.

The square is covered in traditional Portuguese black and white tiles which are laid in small repeating arcs creating a uniform central focal point in Funchal.  

10. FUNCHAL CITY HALL

The striking building in Municipal Square was built in 1758 and became the City Hall of Funchal in 1883.

It’s free to pop in and admire the interior landscaped courtyard with the beautiful Battistini tiles. To learn more about the history of Madeira, you can book a guided tour (€3.50) on weekdays. Tours start at 11 am and take 1 hour.

11. NATA 7

Pastel de Nata is something of an obsession in Portugal. This small parcel of flaky pastry packed with egg custard and burnt to perfection on top, can divide the nation if you ask where to find the best one.

We have it on good authority that Nata 7 is the place to go. Judging by the steady stream of locals out front, it’s hard to argue.

12. UAUCACAU

Madeira has a wonderful artisan approach to their various crafts and Uaucacau Chocolate is a great way to experience one of the many quality treats you can get in Funchal.

While the chocolate is imported, all the fillings are made from local ingredients. One of the most popular is passionfruit, but I was a big fan of the salted caramel.

13. SÉ CATEDRAL DO FUNCHAL

The Funchal Cathedral looks unassuming from the outside, but the main religious building of the Madeira archipelago is packed with history and interesting architectural features.

Building commenced in 1493 and was completed in the 16^th century using characteristics from the Gothic period.

The highlight is the cedarwood ceiling with ivory inlay. It’s a stunning example of Mudéjar decoration common throughout Moorish Iberia, especially Seville and Córdoba.

The cathedral is free to enter.

14. JEEP TOUR

A great way to see more of the Madeira Island is by taking a jeep tour.

Tours will pick you up from your hotel around 9 am and visit various scenic locations where you can appreciate the rugged beauty of the island.

West Island Tour – The West Island tour includes the fishing village of Câmara de Lobos, the agricultural regions near Canhas and the Paul da Serra plateau. The tour returns via Seixal for incredible coastal scenery.

East Island Tour – The East Island tour heads to the highest mountain in Madeira, Pico do Arieiro, before heading to the beautiful Balcões Viewpoint. After lunch you visit a rum factory, then Ponta de São Lourenço before returning to Funchal.

Both tours include lunch.

15. LEVADA WALK

Levadas are water canals that transport water around the island from the rainforests in the north. There are over 1400 kilometres of levada throughout Madeira with the longest being 90 kilometres.

A popular way to get outdoors in Madeira is by doing a Levada walk. There are several you can do on guided tours from Funchal, otherwise they are easy enough to do on your own as the hiking trail follows the canal.

One of the best Levada walks is the 25 Fontes – Cascada de Risco, a beautiful hike with hundreds of little waterfalls. The trail is 9 kilometres (return), easy to follow and should take around 4 hours.

This self-guided 25 Fontes walk includes pick-up from your hotel in Funchal. They get you to the start of the trail before other hikers so you’ll have it to yourself for the first couple of hours.

MAP | FUNCHAL, MADEIRA

All the attractions listed in this guide are on the below map so you can get your bearings in the Madeiran capital.

WHEN TO VISIT

Madeira is a rock in the middle of the Atlantic and it can have two different weather systems depending on which side of the island you are on. As there are lots of great outdoor activities to enjoy from Funchal, it’s a good idea to avoid as much rain as possible.

The best time to visit Funchal is from August to December which is the driest time of the year. The temperatures remain warm over most of this period and the sea is delightfully swimmable.

Funchal has relatively consistent temperatures and it’s a great year-round destination. However, the warmest period is between July and October.

WHERE TO STAY

Madeira is made for the good life and all windy, scenic, mountain roads lead to Funchal – the capital of the island.

We stayed at NEXT at Savoy Signature, a modern resort-style hotel with a cheeky personality and a cool modern design.

They have a winning roof-top pool and bar, direct access to the sea and several quality restaurants. It’s a lovely 10-minute walk into the centre of the Old Town.

GETTING TO MADEIRA

Jet2 has regular flights to Madeira from several UK airports including Birmingham, Bristol, Bournemouth, Manchester and London Stanstead.

Look out for great deals on flights from Manchester Airport with Jet2 from where you can take off to over 60 destinations.

MORE PORTUGAL READING

Cambodia is a fascinating destination with historic landmarks, friendly culture, and wonderful attractions. But a trip to Cambodia requires some forward planning. This guide covers our tips to help make your trip both easy and memorable.

Cambodia has a winning combination of world-class tourist attractions and cheap cost of living.

Short-term holidaymakers can dive into the history of the Angkor Temples, catch a political lesson in Phnom Penh and relax on unspoilt beaches. Longer-term travellers can throw in more remote destinations, stop in colonial towns and reduce the tempo.

If you like to travel independently, like us, a well-planned trip is important for getting the most out of this diverse country. But even if you’re visiting Cambodia on a short stay, we can help you with money tips, booking suggestions and what to pack.

Our guide covers the best time to go to Cambodia, how to get around, what to see plus important information for staying safe.

To see how we put our trip together, read our 2-week Cambodia Itinerary.

WHERE TO GO

Cambodia has a lot to offer both tourists looking for a mini-break and long-term travellers on a wider trip. Here are some of the main places you’ll want to consider when planning a trip to Cambodia.

You can see how we put most of these places together on our Cambodian itinerary.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Cambodia is hot throughout the year with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 35°C (77°F – 95°F). However, the year is split into two seasons.

WET SEASON

The wet season runs from May to October. During these months there can be considerable rain and lots of cloud. Blue skies are infrequent and if you are visiting the islands in the south, crossings can be rough.

DRY SEASON

The dry season runs from November to April. There is little rain during these months and a good chance of blue skies. Within the dry season December & January offer the best temperatures (25°C to 30°C) but it’s busy.

March & April are the hottest months of the year peaking at around 35°C (95°F). February can be a good compromise, with fewer crowds but still good weather.

HOW TO GET TO CAMBODIA

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

There are three international airports in Cambodia – Siem Reap (SAI), Phnom Penh (PNH) and Sihanoukville (KOS). Most trips to Cambodia involve at least 1 stopover, usually in Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul, Taipei, or Singapore.

Google Flights is an excellent way to find the best routes when planning your trip to Cambodia.

SIEM REAP INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Opened in 2023, the new Siem Reap International Airport is 45 kilometres from the centre of the city. Taxis cost $30 and can be arranged through your guesthouse or hotel. A bus runs 8 times a day from just outside the terminal and costs $8. There are no tuk-tuks at the airport.

PHNOM PENH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Phnom Penh International Airport is 12 kilometres from the centre of the city. The best ways to get to the centre of town are:

• Bus No 3 stops at the Central Market and the Night Market and costs about 50 cents.
• The Shuttle Train runs to Cambodia Railway Station and costs $2.50.
• Hiring a tuk tuk from the airport will cost about $5-$10.
• A taxi will cost around $10 – $15.

SIHANOUKVILLE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

There are not many flights into Sihanoukville, but it’s possible to fly here from Kuala Lumpur and Ho Chi Minh City.

LAND CROSSINGS

If you’re visiting Cambodia on a multi-country trip around Southeast Asia you might be looking at a land crossing by bus. It’s significantly cheaper than flying as it avoids both the cost of the flight and the transfers.

Common routes are from:

• Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam) to Phnom Penh – 7 hours 30 minutes.
• Bangkok (Thailand) to Siem Reap – 8 hours 30 minutes.

These bus journeys can be long and painful with tedious stops at the border. Sometimes bus and minivan companies dump you at one side, leave you to make your own way through immigration (where bribes might be sought), and then pick you up on the other side.

It’s worth spending a bit extra to go with a reputable bus company.  

Bus Tip – Everyone we spoke to – expats and tourists alike – recommended Giant Ibis. The bus comes with an on-board service attendant who provides lunch, water and cold towels. They can also assist with the immigration process, making it as easy and stress-free as possible.

CAMBODIA ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

When planning your trip to Cambodia, make sure you check the entry requirements from the country of your passport. Here are some standard arrival requirements as set by the Cambodian Government.

Passport – Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months beyond your entry date into Cambodia.

Visa – 30-day tourist visas (Visa T) are available on arrival. However, it’s easier and less time consuming to apply online. Visas cost $36 and take about 3 business days to be processed. If you overstay the 30 days, you will be charged $10 a day for the first 30 days.

IMPORTANT – NEW E-ARRIVAL CARD

From 1 Jan 2024, Cambodia is trialling a new e-Arrival Card. This card will become mandatory from 1 July 2024. As part of the application process, you need to provide your length of stay, a contact address in the country (use a hotel), and health information.

Most importantly it requires Proof of Onward Travel (POOT) where you must show a ticket for travel out of Cambodia. Most airlines are already checking for this when you board. If you want to stay flexible, either buy a cancellable exit ticket or a cheap one which you can write off.

VACCINATIONS

We are not health experts, so please check the latest requirements with your doctor. However, here are some broad guidelines to consider when planning a trip to Cambodia:

• Recommended vaccinations for all travellers – Tetanus & Hep A.
• Possible vaccinations for longer, remote stays – Hep B, Rabies & Typhoid.
• Malaria – Malaria is low risk across most of Cambodia but becomes a higher risk in the northeast provinces of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri. If visiting the northeast some doctors may recommend anti-malarial tables, while others suggest just taking sensible precautions with DEET and long-sleeved shirts and trousers. Again, check with your doctor.

HEALTH INSURANCE

Cambodia’s health facilities have improved over recent years. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have decent facilities, but many other areas are still quite basic.

Make sure you travel with up-to-date and comprehensive health insurance.

Travel tip – Hiring scooters is a common way to travel around Cambodia independently, but many insurance policies do not cover you when riding them. Check with your insurance in advance if you plan to hire a scooter.

WHAT TO PACK

It’s always good to be prepared, and there are a few considerations when packing for Cambodia.

Cambodia is a hot country any time of year, so plan accordingly:

• Light coloured layers.
• Wide brimmed hat.
• High factor sun-tan lotion.

Cambodia is a conservative country, and a dress code is required in many temples:

• Lightweight full-length trousers.
• Shirts with sleeves.
• Light scarves.

Insects are a menace, especially at dawn and dusk:

• Long trousers and long-sleeved shirts to help avoid bites.
• Insect repellent with high level of DEET.
• Anti-bite cream.

Don’t add to the massive amount of plastic in Cambodia:

• Refillable water bottle.
• Reusable cutlery.
• Reusable coffee mug.

Pharmacies are plentiful but it’s worth having some essentials with you:

• First Aid Kit.
• Imodium & Rehydration salts.

Travel Tip – Cheap laundry facilities are available almost everywhere. It costs about $2 per kilogram and your freshly laundered clothes will be ready the next day. So, there’s no excuse for overpacking.

MONEY

Cambodia’s official currency is the Cambodian riel. However, the country effectively operates a dual currency system, and you can pay in Cambodian riel or US dollars. 

Guesthouses and hotels, tour operators, and smarter restaurants and shops will accept credit and debit cards where you get to choose the currency.

The rest of the economy (tuk-tuks, taxis, street food, local restaurants, official museums) take cash only.

Important: Using US Dollars – If you pay in US dollars the notes need to be perfect. The National Bank of Cambodia will not accept a note with any type of rip or mark on it – so neither will the vendor. If you have US dollars, check to makes sure there are no marks or rips and keep them well protected.

Cash Machines – Cash in both US dollars and Cambodian riels can easily be obtained from ATMs, which are present in all the main tourist centres. There is an almost universal fee of $5-$6 for each transaction, so take out as much as you think you’ll need in one go. The Cathay United Bank was the only one that didn’t charge us a fee.

GETTING AROUND CAMBODIA

Getting around Cambodia is surprisingly easy. Buses run between the big cities, tuk-tuk drivers are on hand everywhere, and scooters are easy to hire for independent travel. The only thing that’s not easy is walking! It’s often very hot and there is little by way of pavements.

BUSES

Buses are a cheap, easy, and pretty comfortable way to travel long distances in Cambodia. Multiple bus companies run different types of vehicles between the major cities. Transport ranges from a mix of minivans, minibuses, luxury buses and night buses.

For an easy way to see which bus companies serve which routes check the aggregator CamboTicket.

The quality of service with each company varies but we highly recommend Giant Ibis and Vireak Buntham – our experience of both were excellent.

It’s worth spending an extra $2-$3 for the comfort of the larger luxury buses, some come with on-board service and the price includes coffee and lunch. 

There are different prices for Cambodians and non-Cambodians. Common routes and prices for non-Cambodians are:

JOURNEY	COST	TIME
Phnom Penh – Siem Reap	$12-$17	6 hr
Phnom Penh – Sihanoukville	$12-$15	3.5 hr
Phnom Penh – Kampot	$8-$10	3 hr
Phnom Penh – Mondulkiri	$12-$16	6 hr
Kampot – Sihanoukville	$8-$10	2.5 hr

INTERNAL FLIGHTS

Buses are usually a better option than internal flights. However, the bus from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville takes about 10 hours, and the newly introduced Cambodia Angkor Air flight takes only 1 hour 10 minutes.

TUK-TUKS

Tuk-tuks are not designed for stability or speed, instead, they are a fun way to explore a city. They operate at about 12-24mph (20-40kph) and are great for trips up to about 15-20 miles away (taking about 1 hour). Short journeys of around 10 minutes within towns and cities are about $2-$4. Daily hire is about $20.

If you ever have trouble communicating with your tuk tuk driver they will hand you their phone and get you to type your destination into Google maps. If you are going somewhere particularly obscure, it might be a good idea to have the address in Khmer on your phone.

TAXIS

Taxis are great for longer distances. They are more comfortable and come with air conditioning. You can hire them for a single journey or for a haIf or full day. If you are four people, they can be similar in price and more convenient than long-distance buses.

Travel Tip: PassApp – Guesthouses can help arrange tuk-tuks and taxis, or you can bargain on the street. Alternatively, download the PassApp, an Uber-like service for taxis and tut tuks with a standard price generally cheaper than what you could negotiate yourself. When registering you need to enter a Cambodian telephone number, so either buy a Cambodian sim or ask your guesthouse owner to register with their number.

SCOOTERS

Scooters or mopeds can be rented almost anywhere. They cost about $8-$10 per day for unlimited mileage. They are great in more remote places, but the streets in the cities can be chaotic. Check that your insurance policy covers scooter use.

HEALTH & HYGIENE

Nothing can ruin a holiday quicker than getting ill. Here’s a few health and hygiene tips to consider when planning a trip to Cambodia.

Water – The tap water in Cambodia is not safe to drink. Bring a refillable water bottle which most guesthouses will let you fill up for free or for a small charge. Ice is generally fine as it’s made from filtered water.  

Toilets – You may come across the odd squat toilet in Cambodia, but most are western style toilets and generally the standard of cleanliness is high. As with many Asian countries, toilet paper goes in the bin beside the toilet. In public restrooms, toilet paper and soap regularly run out, so carry your own with you.

Pharmacies – There are many pharmacies in the main cities, and they are relatively well stocked. However, if you are going to more remote areas, especially the islands, it’s a good idea to plan ahead.

Traveller’s Diarrhoea – Cases of Traveller’s Diarrhoea is not uncommon in Cambodia so take the usual precautions including washing your hands regularly, avoiding all tap water and considering what you eat. The food markets in Cambodia are great but assess which ones appear to have good hygiene standards before you try their food.

ELECTRICITY & DATA

Electricity Sockets – Cambodia is the only country we have ever been to with electricity sockets designed to take all major plugs. Most hotels will have at least a few of these ingenious sockets that will take US, European, UK and Australian plugs. If another country exists with this feature, please let us know.

Wi-Fi – Unless you are in a very remote location, almost all guesthouses and hotels have wi-fi.

Mobile Data – We recommend getting an e-SIM before you travel which allows you to retain your mobile phone number, plus use data in Cambodia. We used Nomad which had good service throughout the country and Asia-wide plans so we could use it in other countries. You could also purchase a Cambodian Sim when you arrive which will be cheaper, but you have the hassle of going into a store to buy one.

CRIME & SAFETY

We felt very safe travelling around Cambodia and the Buddhist culture is friendly and welcoming. However, there are a couple of things to be aware of.

Bag snatching – In recent years bag snatching in Phnom Penh has become more prevalent. Wear backpacks or keep single strapped backs tight to your person.

Sex tourism – There is usually one or two streets in the major cities geared towards sex tourism. Prostitution, although extremely common, is illegal.

Land Mines – Land mines are a terrible part of Cambodian history. They are most prevalent in the rural northwest, near the Thai border. De-mining activities continue, but if you’re hiking, don’t stray from the main trails.   

LANGUAGE

The main language in Cambodia is Khmer, but English is commonly spoken in most tourist areas and most tours operate in English.

Travel Tip – Download Khmer on Google Translate before you travel. It can help in more remote areas and with tuk-tuk drivers.

MORE CAMBODIA READING

At the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers lies a city with a tortured past that is emerging as Asia’s premier capital of cool. Here’s our guide to the best things to do in Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh is one of our favourite cities in southeast Asia.

Dusty, but leafy streets give it a lovely village-like feel while grand palaces and world-class museums position Phnom Penh as a modern international city.

But it also has a long and painful history. Cambodia’s harrowing past is bought to life in meaningful memorials that, while confronting, are important in understanding the compelling resistance of the Cambodian people.

Phnom Penh has all the intensity of Asian culture in a town that can be both quiet and hectic, chilled yet buzzing with atmosphere.

Here are all our favourite things to do in Phnom Penh.  

1. SOSORO MUSEUM

The Cambodian Museum of Economy and Money, the Sosoro Museum, provides a unique perspective of the tenuous link between money, politics and power.

It’s a fascinating, well-organised museum and the highlight of our visit to Phnom Penh.

The story starts with an early 7th-century coin discovered in the Russian Market in 2012, providing proof that ancient Angkor societies used money.

From here, the exhibition covers the story of Cambodia through finance, trade, economics and politics. The best section is the history of the last 150 years which shows just how far Cambodia has come over the last few decades.

If you only visit one museum in Phnom Penh, this is definitely the one.

2. TUOL SLENG GENOCIDE MUSEUM (S-21)

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum was the largest torture centre of the Khmer Rouge where 12,000 people were tortured and murdered.

The former high school was the height of the Khmer Rouge atrocities. When liberated by Vietnam, there were only 7 people left alive at Tuol Sleng. Photographs of those tortured and killed as Vietnam advanced on the city remain on the walls to this day.

As with many genocidal regimes, the Khmer Rouge documented their insanity in great detail. Thousands of B&W photos of each prisoner are displayed often before and after torture, along with harrowing descriptions of what they did to them.

Tours used to be given by some of the few survivors. However, there are now only two remaining inmates still alive, Bou Meng and Chum Mey. They are often in the grounds of the museum, selling their books.

We highly recommend getting the audio guide to fully understand this important but harrowing museum. Allow around 2 hours to visit.

3. CHOEUNG EK KILLING FIELDS

The Killing Fields are several sites across Cambodia where more than 1 million people were executed by the Khmer Rouge in state-sponsored genocide.

The Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre is one of these killing fields where around 20,000 prisoners from Tuol Sleng were detained, tortured and executed. There are 129 mass graves, spread across 6 acres.

Visiting is a humbling but important experience in understanding the atrocities Cambodia has experienced.

An audio guide provides detailed information about the site, as well as personal accounts from survivors.  

After the tour, visit the Memorial Stupa which contains 9,000 skulls, exhumed at the site, arranged by sex and age.

To get to the Killing Fields organise a Tuk-Tuk driver who will charge around $US15 to take you out, wait and bring you back. Allow about 90 minutes to visit.

4. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CAMBODIA

The National Museum of Cambodia houses the largest collection of Khmer sculpture in the world. It contains sculptures and statues discovered from the Angkor Temples near Siem Reap as well as ceramics and textiles, some of which date from pre-Angkor times.

One of the highlights at the museum is the building itself. Constructed in 1920, it’s a traditional Khmer building with a lovely central courtyard.

If you enter the building and turn left, you’ll see the collection in chronological order.

5. NIGHT MARKET (PSAR REATREY)

The Phnom Penh Night Market is a riverside open air market selling clothing, handbags, fake designer goods and souvenirs.

Past the stalls firmly focused on tourists, there’s a fantastic Cambodia street food market.

Expect to pay around $US1 to $US2 for a steaming bowl of noodle soup, fried rice straight from the wok, or pork skewers, steamed buns and much more.

Grab your food from one of the stalls then either sit on mats in the central space or at table and chairs around the edge. It’s one of the best local eating experiences in Phnom Penh.

The entrance is on Sisowath Quay between street 106 and street 108. The night market is open every night from around 5 pm.

6. ROYAL PALACE & SILVER PAGODA

The Royal Palace is the official residence of the king. It’s a remarkable example of traditional Khmer architecture and well worth a visit on your trip to Phnom Penh.

As a royal residence, many areas are closed to the public, but you can visit the Throne Hall, used for official ceremonies. It has a 59-metre tower inspired by Bayon at Angkor Wat.

The other main highlight in the complex is the Silver Pagoda, named after the silver tiles covering the floor. Don’t miss the murals around the pagoda on the northwest side.

You need to adhere to the dress code to visit the palace which is shorts that reach the knees and shirts that cover elbows. However, we it seemed that the rules were much stricter for women.

7. THE WAT’S OF PHNOM PENH

There are a few temples in Phnom Penh worth visiting on your way past.

The main one is Wat Phnom. Located on the top of a grassy hill (Phnom means hill), Wat Phnom is reached via a staircase adorned with lions and nāga (semi-divine, half-human, half-serpent creatures).

There’s often great atmosphere at the bottom of the stairs with locals purchasing offerings to take to the temple.

It’s $1 to visit and, as with all temples in Cambodia, you need to take your shoes off to enter.

The second wat worth visiting is Wat Ounalom. This is the oldest Buddhist temple in Phnom Penh and the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. You’ll find lots of monks who live in the complex wandering around. 

8. KOH DACH (SILK ISLAND)

Koh Dach is a small island in the middle of the Mekong River, famous for its silk production.

You can visit on your own steam; however, Silk Island is one of the few attractions we recommend visiting on an organised tour.

Join a boat tour, where you can enjoy a relaxing ride down the river, then learn about the island and its silk traditions from a knowledgeable guide.

You’ll be taken on a quick tour of the school before meeting the woman behind the silk production. Watch them create intricate patterns on traditional looms and follow the silk process from worm to finish scarf.

There are toilets and a small hut selling drinks and snacks. Beer or soft drink is included for free on the boat. Book your Koh Dach tour which takes about 3 hours.

9. PHNOM PENH’S BEST MARKETS

Life in Phnom Penh happens in the markets. No visit would be complete without soaking up the atmosphere of the city’s vibrant markets. They are all a little different but here are the ones we think you should visit.

RUSSIAN MARKET (TUOL TOMPOUNG)

The Russian Market is laid out under a patchwork of tin roofs with hundreds of stalls vying for space underneath. Find everything from fresh food and vegetables to pig’s trotters and spices, car parts and wicker baskets.

Our tip: Visit Tuol Sleng in the morning, walk up to the Russian Market for lunch, then organise a tuk-tuk to go out to the Killing Fields.

ORUSSEY MARKET

Orussey Market is the true local market in Phnom Penh and there were almost no tourists when we were there. It’s spread over 3 floors with clothing and fabrics on the top two and everything you could imagine on the ground floor. It’s a wonderful experience, with stalls stretching as far as the eye can see, but mostly for photo opportunities.   

CENTRAL MARKET (PSAR THMEI)

The Central Market, often referred to as the New Market is an art deco landmark in Phnom Penh shaped like a giant beehive. The huge domed hall is one of the largest in the world and acts to keep the market as cool as possible. You’ll find jewellery, antique coins and watches, but the fresh food section is best for photography.

Tip: Go in the morning when it’s busiest and have breakfast at the food stalls on the western side.

10. MONUMENTS OF PHNOM PENH

Phnom Penh is a proud city with several monuments to Cambodia’s independence from various occupiers. You don’t need long to see them, but they are worth picking up as you stroll around the city.

Independence Monument – Modelled on the central tower of Angkor Wat, the Independence Monument celebrates Cambodia’s independence from France. The design is beautiful, and it’s surrounded by a park which is a nice place to relax.

Norodom Sihanouk – The 4.5-metre-tall statue of King Norodom Sihanouk is housed under a 27-metre stupa east of the Independence Monument.

Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument – The Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument was built in 1979 by the communist regime that took over after the country was liberated by the Vietnamese.

11. BASSAC LANE & LANGKA LANE

Phnom Penh has a neighborhood vibe with tree-lined streets and cafes housed in ramshackle buildings. Although it maintains the intensity of Asian culture for the most part, there are a few areas specifically aimed at tourists which we loved.

Bassac Lane – Also known as Street 308, Bassac Lane was a quiet residential lane that has been transformed into a hub for eating and drinking. Try White Rabbit for some of the best cocktails in town, Mama Wong for excellent homemade noodles, Yacht Club for stylish cocktails, and Elia Greek Kitchen for some tasty Mediterranean food.

Langka Lane – Just around the corner, Langka Lane is a tiny street with a smart collection of stylish western bars. We loved, GroovyRoom lounge bar, TicTic for stylish cocktails and BattBong, a speakeasy hidden behind a Coca-Cola fridge.

12. SUNSET RIVER CRUISE

A sunset cruise on the Mekong is a very cost-effective way to experience Phnom Penh from the river. See the lights of Phnom Penh fade and get a glimpse of local life from the other side of the Mekong.

All tours include unlimited beer and soft drink plus a seasonal fruit platter. Most will pick you up from your hotel, but you need to find your own way back.

Book your sunset river cruise here.

After the cruise, walk down to the Night market for dinner.

MORE CAMBODIA READIN