Innsbruck

I push my finger against the slightly steamy bus window, tracing saw-toothed mountains meeting a star-lit sky. On any other evening, the darkness would make these extremes indistinguishable. But tonight, flickers of pumpkin-hued flames acted as my guide. For one evening every June, Tyrol resuscitates its centuries-old tradition of Kreidfeuer – chalk fires atop the…